IT IS THAT SE LJA VI.
IT IS THAT SE LJA VI.
Svetlana BULANENKO "Today".
THERE SPEAK: "ZHA ME" ALSO CRY IN FRENCH...
... It would be desirable to leave, depart, dash away from intolerable heat in the Summer.
Public with modest incomes satisfies this natural desire
Somewhere around small river Kozinki or lake Telbin. The people
"zamozhnyj" already presumes something such - Canary Islands,
Sejshely, the Bahamas... However, it too for a similar category
The population - "the passed stage". Shout of a fashion of this season - Nice.
The Mediterranean beauty, plus smart festivals. So...
"... And now about Nice. Never in a life I yet did not test the such
klimatologicheskogo pleasure, as here, even a heat to it not a hindrance, "
-- Herzen wrote to the future enemy Gervegu in the summer of 1850.
But klimatologicheskim pleasure Nice and adjoining to it antib and
Grasse, let alone the next princedom of Monaco, are capable to present and
In other season. Especially, strangely enough, in the winter, when the nature
Does not know neither crowd noise, nor exhausting heat. Well and summer here
Traditionally delightful...
... Those who happened on Riviera, two things amaze: its small
The sizes and "opacity" of an original life. Average
The tourist still has inaccessible the industrial party of local life.
Meanwhile nearby to antiba the industrial capital disappears
The Mediterranean, if not all Western Europe - Sofia the Antipolicy. In
This artificial education which has arisen almost 30 years ago among
Woods and hills, the European headquarters of the largest are located
The world companies. 15 thousand persons are occupied in representations 850
Firms - from "Thompson" to п п &п . Besides, in Maritime Alps (so
All department which the Azure coast concerns) is called
The microelectronics is developed also. And the Palace of festivals in Cannes on most
Business it is well-known not only film festivals, but also different
Economic forums.
Sen-Rafael with which so it is natural to begin travel on
To Riviera, it is beautiful extraordinary. Here one celebrities, but, except
Expensive country houses and the nature, and eyes to stop any more on what.
Unless on a museum. Where a lot of all perfect. Matisse, for example.
And here Cannes are already a song. Though at times and with shrill, as
It has appeared, notes. But at first...
ABOUT THE PLEASANT...
Restaurants, as well as hotels, it is necessary to taste, as fault. Or women.
Or men (all depends on the point of view of the taster). After all on
Resort the meal becomes the same important entertainment, as well as all
The rest.
Restaurant "Bel Otero", settled down under a roof of the Cannes hotel
"Karlton" (space there huge - nearby an exercise room with
Pool and the casino), is among the gastronomic. And consequently
Not cheap: the dinner here costs from 200 francs, and a supper - to 600 (the prices
For the Europeans who are not guessing ours "razguljajstve", simply
Inconceivable). Already introductory snack is capable to amaze
Imagination: the cancers seasoned with parsley with lisichkami and a coco in
Environment crackling kartoshechki.
The headwaiter plying between little tables, submitting prepared on
To the recipe "a la the grandmother" a hare, specifies, that game for "Bel Otero"
Specially shoot in woods near Strasbourg.
And here as to sweet and it was not possible to understand, that
It has been submitted to tokajskomu Aszu Disznoko "5 puttonyos" 1992
Year... To Translate the name of this overseas fruit it is impossible. And
Not having coped with definition of what was in a flash
Disappeared in a direction to a stomach gianduia, with bitterness have found out
On a dish only lonely cake from chestnuts in a pear from the spicy
karamelju. Main cook "Bel-Otero", which on a habit bypassing
Visitors consults about lacks and advantages of a meal,
It is always disappointed - except ohov and ahov, anything efficient it again
Has not heard...
However, on Azure there are also more democratic institutions.
For example, storing fidelity to the past small restaurants in old Nice.
Over many of them supervise the ex-head cook of the best hotels of coast -
But now they presume to prepare for themselves dishes exclusively
Local cuisine, thus not distracting on such trifles, as reception to
To payment of credit cards: only cash! It sokku - fried in
The test nut (the mutton peas), pissala dera - a pie with an onion, pissaloj
-- (Mashed potatoes from anchovies) and with black olives, well and, of course, the local
ravioli.
Searches of the most unusual interior have come to the end in hotel
"negresko" where Claude Bonuchchi has invited us. In hotel is not only
Ancient restaurant "п п п?я п п п п я ", but also much more cheerful "Rotunda".
Last from within reminds the present roundabout, with the horse
Heads and corresponding music. To look at hotel
(Well-known for the interiors already from the beginning of the century) can vsjak, in this
Finding interest. The door-keeper with equal respect will open a door and
To the lodger three-room "retinue", and prazdnoshatajushchemusja to the tourist,
Involved with a cool of the old house and ready though for a while
To leave the quay filled in with the sun.
Cannes - Nice - Mentona... In this movement on a straight line is and
The historical logic. Cannes are created by Englishmen and Russian. As well as
In general all Cote d ` Azur. Changeable Nice long time tried
To be the servant of two misters, plying between the French kings and
The Italian princes. In 1388 it has left "under the duke"
Savojsky and only in 1860 has definitively returned to France. In it
Time it was occupied by the first Russian. So, in 1857 Parkway
Empresses in Nice empress Alexander Fedorovna has opened,
Arrived here together with five children. Besides the personal reasons
(The empress was poor health), there were reasons and political: in
Nearby Vilfranii Russian fleet has received sea base. However,
Soon Nice has departed again to France in which yet have not forgotten
The Crimean victories. Has not forgotten them and the empress. Has hastened to leave.
OURS ON THE AZURE.
That amazes on Azure coast (especially in Cannes) - so it
Selective affability of sellers. And a nationality not
Plays a special role. Can simply not want to pick up necessary to you
The goods. About similar reception you stumble often enough. Speak,
For this reason Americans and Germans all go to Riviera less often. But
Our compatriots it you will not frighten.
Conversations on Russian mafia still replace conversations in Europe
About weather. When there is nothing to speak, recollect not the forecast for a rain,
But articles about "wild Russian". Russian name all arrived of
The former USSR. Though from them do not forget to take and profit the,
Selling country houses and creating problems with residence permit. So it is direct
Also speak: let buy to itself a corner if want for pension, and
As they here will locate, not our problem. Say, it
The competence of Paris - and histories with visas, and conversations on that,
Money is laundered at us or not.
Indeed, when to you try vsuchit advertising of a country house in cost 5
Millions dollars, as a rule, sentence: "Who, except
Russian, it also will buy, the poor thing ". So, without ours there not to manage.
At least local bureaus of the real estate only Russian also are full.
It would be desirable to hope, that, walking on the quay, new
The generation from the ex-union will be not only to be filled up in taverns, but also
In museums to look. In Nice their weight.
For example, in the Museum of fine arts ZHjulja SHere, besides plentiful Van
Dongena and Djufi, there are also Maria Bashkirtsevoj's living here jobs, early
The died artist, whose frank diary chafed in the last century
Hearts of all France.
Matisse's museum - a huge red building in the spirit of Genoa
Architecture of XVII century. The artist has lived here many years, though a museum
Him spends also "extraneous" exhibitions. Among other local
Collections palaces Laskaris and Massena are allocated.
Palace Massena costs practically on a beach, but is rare whose foot there
Reaches: not wet in a museum to run really...
On road to it - the Museum Walked. The artist preferred to Nice
Sen-Pol - a medieval city which is adored for some reason by fans
"Spheres" - typically French game to observe for which even
More interestingly, than behind football: a picture, where Willows Montan together with Simonoj
The signor, spending in the Sen-field it is a lot of time, plays "spheres",
Has entered into all biographies of the actor.
And here on a question: "Where there is a bust to Dyagilev?", ballet troupe
Which was famous in 20th years in Monte-Carlo, in the answer policemen
Only made a helpless gesture... And it costs. There there are no colours. And any it
Very not well-groomed. There pierces sensation, that these old
Traces of Russian emigration almost disappear. As traces on sand...
The more close you move ahead to the Italian border, the it is more
You become the captive of the main charm of these places. It - in
Infinite prigranichnosti and pogranichnosti lives.
Azure coast - a boundary region, a mix Italian and
French the cultures, giving rise to special dialects and moods - and
Unless borderlines not the best, what in general can be? On
To extreme measure, the sharpness does not release them you long. As that
Is painful-delightful interval between passionate love and
Sincere hatred when both feelings already own you
Simultaneously, but any cannot get the best yet...
//* an information Source: "Today", the newspaper, 8.07.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 8090700099.67-------------------------------------------
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