WIND OF WANDERINGS.
WIND OF WANDERINGS.
Michael ROMANTSOV "Today".
OVERSEAS LIFE NOT THIN, BUT NOT VLAZTE ON THE CAMEL!.
"Who has tried water from Nile, will eternally aspire to Cairo", -
Russian poet Nikolay Gumilev summarised at the beginning of the century. However on
Outcome of century similar experiments to spend it is not necessary, and that
It is possible and to "fall in love" with the greatest river of the world to death: in nilskih
Waters there are the activators of the most dangerous illnesses known
To Europeans unless from adventure novels and medical
Directories.
STAR DUST OF THE BIG CAIRO.
The Boeing was put in pawn by an abrupt bend, and in a velvet bowl of the huge
Megacity beads have begun to shine miriady night sparks. From the such
Heights the capital of Egypt very much resembled the Universe with fogs,
Constellations, spirals of galaxies.
Cairo amazes with the scales: it pjatnadtsatimillionnoe
The population, according to our guide, in peak of a tourist season
Increases by one million. Therefore hotels of a different manner, from
Smart "Hilton" and "Sheraton" - to doss houses of type student's
Hostels, are scattered on all city. Like whales, they
Filter a plankton of lodgers: it is in a suite with
Pool, it is in a little room without the conditioner, "but" with a kind
On musornik. The quantity of stars on facades of hotels, as a rule, is necessary
To call in question, trusting more likely the information of "native"
Tourist agencies, than to ambitions of natives. The same - with
Restaurants: in "five-stars" on the coast of Nile I on stains on
Cloths has made full enough representation about the menu for all
The last week; meanwhile in an institution which had not so
Started "star fever", obsluga it has been schooled on the higher
To class, napkins are starched, and dishes exhaled aroma of a blossoming garden.
I will not make bold to assert, that Egyptians is universal
Differ "pathological" honesty, but larceny in this country
Extremely seldom, not speaking about more serious crimes. And even
To the lonely young foreigner at night in deaf quarter practically
Threatens nothing. O-o-o, certainly, except for attacks
Uncountable dealers souvenirs, apparently, round the clock
Trapping victims on thresholds of tiny shops, also invited
The luxurious shops catching yours, even casually thrown,
Sight. These hospitable spiders, you will not be in time and a mouth to open, will entangle
Artful design sloves, will entice and will drag in the sparkling
Mosaic gold a mink. Then rough dialogue on a mix follows
The pidzhin-English with is broken-rashen, often accompanied hvataniem for
Sleeve, zakatyvaniem an eye, hand-wringing and other
Tragicomic п©я п п п п п п :.
-- The Mr., the Mr., an onion it zis!
-- Ah hev, this good at me already in bulk.
-- Drjug, ti from Rush?
-- Nou, ah from JUkrejn
-- Ukrainja? "Dynamo-kiev"? Veri a buzzing tim! To look, tolko
To look! This skarap - from onyx, pjadeset paund (that is pounds;
One US dollar - 3,4 Egyptian pounds - M. R)
-- What it, to hell, onyx, when your scarab - from
The Taiwan black-green soap. A rough fake, du ju andestend?.
In the answer - a radiant smile without a confusion shade: "Jes, lovely, but
To look this Anubis - pazalt! "As basalt there also does not smell, but
Bears jadrenoj the chemistry which is a part of a solution, from which
National umeltsy have modeled a figure of a jackal - drevneegipetskogo the god
Dead, - however, it is graceful enough and with taste. To you this product
Has attracted also you were pulled behind a purse? No way!
Be in a pointed manner developed and defile away, accompanied
Accruing detsibellami я п?я пЁп?п я п :.
-- Pjadeset! Forty! Tridtsat! Not to want tridtsat? O-o-o! Skolko?
-- Ten, - throw on the move
-- Desjat - nou! Dvatsit! Pinatsat! O'kej - desjat... Senk ju
veri a match!.
IT IS NECESSARY NOT DEAD...
... Fans of an easy money, still have solved B.C. in an antiquity
All tombs which have cleaned almost bogoravnyh Pharaohs. And, similar,
This principle has strongly got accustomed in the lotus and papyrus country. Passing
By an ancient country churchyard on one of suburbs of Cairo, I was surprised, that
Lengthways kladbishchenskoj walls last poor shops "from a canvas and
Cardboard ", it is rough razmalevannye grivastymi lions and lunolikimi peri.
The goods - an alabaster stucco moulding, mixed pots of red clay
And the cheap textiles - mountains rose on border between the world live and
The country of the dead. What my surprise when it was found out was,
That the majority of the mausoleums and spacious family tombs -
Are lived. Also live in them not only "scum of society" (after all ours
Vagabonds too quite often "lodge" in old crypts), but also hundreds
Hardworking, as ants, and poor, as church rats,
Handicraftsmen. And here in memory the teleplot seen still in has emerged
The childhood, about struggle of the Egyptian police against these profaners
Tombs - apparently now, ended full victory of the last.
In general, housing architecture of Egypt at the European sight
It is unique. No, not twined bugenvillejami and utykannye on perimetre
Country house palm trees in the aristocratic quarters, exhaling aroma
East luxury; and even not serf thickness ancient
Two-three-storyed private residences with lancet windows, chastely
The covered carved shutters; and, it is final, not the many-storeyed
Concrete monsters, here and there growing from the earth heated until white. And
-- Small private houses of peasants-fellahov, small officials and
The dealers, capitals making suburb, it is equal as a basis of others
Cities, and also - excuse for an euphemism - a corner stone
Rural architecture.
A first minute, having appeared in such quarter, I was have decided, that
Has come in the next ruins what in this country it is enough. However
Has soon thought, that, on the contrary, the small two - three-storyed
Square small houses are continuous "nedostroj": the roof role carries out
Overlapping of last floor over which bunches of the steel tower
Rods - it is doubtless, armature for a superstructure of a following level.
Yes, but why all houses, everything is resolute, are left unfinished? Perhaps poor fellows
Have threatened on bolshee, than the purse, and then at everyone allowed
Money has sharply come to an end? Having heard the answer, I was amazed practicalities
Natives. It appears, as soon as in a family the elder son, it marries
Builds on over the fatherly house one more floor - and lodges there with
Family. Then the turn of the following offspring comes... Here and
It turns out: not the country - and a continuous building site! In the rural
Districts over "roof" throw thick lots of a reed,
The protecting house from the burning sun. Rains here so are rare, that about
Them write on the first pages of newspapers.
CROSS ON YOU - IS!.
Egypt was one of the first countries where the Christianity has got accustomed,
Has prevailed as the state religion and there was that
Up to the Arabian gain. To local Christians - koptam
The mankind "is obliged" by destruction of thousand drevneegipetskih sculptures
-- "idolishch nasty"; this "educational" undertaking have continued
Arabs - Moslems, well and that has escaped from the two-thousand-year
Beatings because of religious jealousy, we admire and admire with
You. By the way, a face to the well-known sphinx in Giza, known as
"The father of horror", "pokolupali" gun kernels Egyptian mamljuki,
Practising in shooting. But so it even is more mysteriously looked.
In the rest with toleration in Egypt business were not bad, and
Therefore every tenth inhabitant of the country and carries today a cross, and
Many such size, that where there "new Russian". Besides,
The local Christian community is extremely influential and it is traditional
Fills up local isteblishment with politicians, diplomats, large
Businessmen. Perhaps, the most known Egyptian - the Christian -
The former secretary general of United Nations Butros Butros Gali. Notice: thus, that
Half of local population is illiterate, among dawned by a cross it
-- The unusual occurrence suffices.
To me have told, for fun or seriously, that the Muslim majority
All the same tries to protect the people from influence of "contestant firm",
Also does it literal sense: as soon as Christians begin
To build church, followers Magometa from four parties from it
Pawn on a mosque. Sounds, it is necessary to recognise, not so
Plausibly, but I own eyes saw, how near erected
Churches by accelerated tempo were built at once by two mosques.
MY LANGUAGE - MY FRIEND.
Egyptians - the people easy, friendly and extremely sociable.
Machine-gun treskotnja conversations is groundless since morning and till the night.
When - about dire necessity - the Egyptian sits down a wheel
The car and thus the interlocutor, it for a while loses
Fills shortage of dialogue by continuous hooters of a horn, so
Over a motorway costs howl, as during bombardment. It is noticed, that with
Especial pleasure "vodily" signal, having caught sight of a sign forbidding
It to do: for example, near to hotels and public buildings. No,
At all from harm, and - self-denyingly rescuing lodgers from the pressing
Silence and boredom, kakovye them have comprehended because of the cruel
Administrations.
In general, in this country you will not feel a language barrier. Even if
Will not meet as the guide, like the author, the same graduate
University and the same branch what have finished several
For years earlier. Almost all who is involved in the rest industry, have in
The arsenal pair-three Russian phrases, and if also you still something
Remember in English or French, luxury of dialogue to you
It is provided to the full.
But sometimes for own blessing is not out of place to represent, what not
Understand, that from you want. We will tell, so it is the most easier to get off from
Importunate beduinov, extorting from you for a symbolical payment
To test happiness from walk astride a camel round a pyramid or
At least along a motorway. It is not assured, that everyone will manage to taste
Pleasures from such physical exercise: not only that daredevil can
To "taste" fleas living on a camel (and among them meet and
Transferring a plague) so by the driving end often it appears, that
For pleasure slezt with dromadera beduin demands in ten, and at times
-- In fifty times more, than for a attraction. It is possible, of course,
To leave a saddle it is independent, not waiting while the owner will lower
Animal on knees - but hardly it is necessary to risk, if you not
Possess extensive experience of jumps from the second floor on asphalt.
SACRED WORD "BAKSHEESH".
No, it not a bribe, not a gift and at all tip. A small bribe -
Baksheesh - some kind of a sign on attention and gratitude, whose
The origin is lost in centuries. An another matter, that under influence
The European mercantilism the baksheesh turns in more and more
Inevitable tribute which from the tourist wait in any occasion or without
This: for necessity to visit before a dinner a toilet in a tavern and
Pleasure to wash up after that hands; for the right to be photographed
Near to a dirty cub beduina or respectable grey-bearded the woman;
For "excursion" to the nearest supermarket or a legend told
Vagrant chicherone on ancient ruins...
Once I "have lighted up" idea to be embodied near to local
The gallant guardsmen addressing with darling "kalashnikovymi" with
Such ease from what children swing budyljami
Sunflower, representing musketeers. The plan is not has gone right is unique
Because of absence at the non-smoking author of the cigarettes declared in
Quality of a baksheesh - and money, as is known, hussars do not take.
It is interesting, that the authorities of Egypt after in the Valley of tsars
Terrorists have made targets of several tens foreigners,
In every possible way provide their safety (still, tourism here -
Third article of incomes), and more that is demonstrirurujut the
Diligence. So, in a trip to temple Karnak (to the largest cult
To construction on a planet which, however, remains behind frameworks of it
Narrations - with all other antiquities described in
Guidebooks up and down) the huge caravan goes from
Buses under police protection. And all long road from Hurgada on
To roadsides figures of soldiers in a black uniform will flash,
vplavivshiesja in razzhizhennyj asphalt or grown into machine-gun towers.
On an outcome of week has blown severe hamsin from Libyan desert,
Nostalgia has rolled and, by itself, terribly it wanted to drink. Remembering
About that local strong spirits can be consumed only
Before death (for process acceleration), and a bouquet of the Egyptian wines
It is poor enough (it and is clear: as it is possible to prepare that well,
That most to try it is forbidden), we have gone to the special
Supermarket where the foreigner can buy the hot. As
It has appeared - no more than three bottles and with "entering in the private affair"
-- That is, with a stamp in the passport, after which such purchase
It is possible to repeat only after half a year.
Next morning, with "a shameful brand" in the passport, easy dizziness
From an adhesive tape and inexplicable feeling of loss, we have soared up in
Improbably dark blue sky that through minute to be dissolved in him.
And after months, and can, years, with light grief to find out, that
The rights, ah as rights there was Gumilev...
//* an information Source: "Today", the newspaper, 10.07.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 8090700102.52-------------------------------------------
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